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They ARE garbage

Sadly it's done. Metal is never good

Best of luck - hope you get it out :-)

The wires come out of the firewall right under the brake booster, follow them closely all the way to the headlights themselves making sure they are not rubbed through and shorted either to ground or one another. If they look good, unplug the headlights and see if the switch still gets warm. If it does, the only thing left is a problem under the dash

Good deal, hope it goes well ! Have a beer for me :-)

I'm sorry, I don't know. If there's a "hump" in the sheet metal under the seat, there's a good chance the pump is located under the hump.

I take a piece of sheet metal or aluminum (depending on what I have laying around), cut it a little larger than the hole I cut in the floor, then pop-rivet it to the existing floor. Also, I put some silicone sealer around the hole before installing the sheet metal cover so no water can splash up and leak in

@@mark_osborne thanks I'm am about to embark in this adventure and I live in my 2003 Chevy Ventura so closing the hole is kinda important lol

@@angelatbluehairedsudios8106 Please please be careful not to cut too deep or you can cut the fuel lines and/or wires. You want to just barely cut through the metal

Awesome !

Usually you must file the opening where they secondary air doors are catching. I place the entire top section upside-down in a vice and take a large file and make passes until I'm just tickling it in the middle. They worst part will be where the 2 front bolts go through.

@@mark_osborne the flaps are only hanging up due to what I did they were smooth as silk otherwise it's the rod itself is binding and moving in its groove but I think flattening it will help. I will try bokting down to a very solid piece of timber w heat and try again and if not I'll try that method

@@kainestefaniak2751 Yeah you may have this thing torqued out of shape. They typically only warp in the front 1/3rd due to the 2 large front bolts- which is usually correctable with a large file. Sorry you're having so much grief

@@mark_osborne as expected with older items, no problem I will slowly get it, I really appreciate the feedback and will be watching again when i get it sorted. Carby is supaa clean just waiting on some parts. Wanted to help the old man getting his hq Ute running. Seen a few different methods but seen you were fairly active in the comment section so multiple opinions is always thought of and appreciated

I ran them without a BMS all the way to the fall of 2023 when I switched over to LifePO4 cells from Docan Power. The Volt and Leaf cells remained in near perfect balance the entire 7 years they were in service and amazingly tested to 90-92% capacity when I tested each individual 48 V pack. The Leaf cells went to a friend in Texas, I got almost what I paid for them. I still have the Volt cells. I need to get them up for sale. Thanks for watching

I bought 64 cells, they came from a warehouse in Texas but were made in China, so at some point they took the slow boat to the US. The cells cost more when you buy them from the Texas warehouse because the cost to get them to the US is baked into the price. I don't remember the exact cost of shipping from Texas to Michigan, I think $500 ? It wasn't horrible. It was a fraction of what it would have cost me in gas and motel rooms to drive to Texas and back. They came on 1 pallet. I drove to Romulus, Michigan and picked them up at the shipper using my pickup truck. I bought them from Docan Power. Contact Amy. Great outfit. Super happy with the cells. They've been in play for over a year now.

@@mark_osborne You definitely got a better shipping price than me to shipped 64 batteries. All I want was Docan to ship to me 16 batteries from there US warehouse to me and would cost me little over $800. I said no thank you. This price was giving in late may 2024. They did offer another batter at $90 a piece from US warehouse and free shipping I said no to that too. I am thinking of ordering the 280Ah Docan Power batteries at $39.90 from overseas, but I am afraid shipping cost wouldn't be much better either. Also there name on the battery Docan Power is not the company full name it is Docan Technology. Anyway, thank you for all the info.

@@2104doug It may have been more than $500, my memory has faded

Completely normal for the secondaires to barely open while revving in neutral. A bog usually indicates the secondary air door is opening too soon or too easy. The choke-brake (diaphragm) located at the passenger side front of the carb should have a rod that leads back to the secondary air door. The choke-brake should hold that door closed ( tight) while idling (high intake vacuum) and bleed-off slowly when you smash the throttle. Some carbs even have a secondary choke-brake located at the passenger rear of the carb with rods leading to the secondary air door. They effectively do the same thing as pertaining to the air door, that is, slow it's ability to open causing fuel to flow out of the secondary nozzles -thus covering up the "bog" you are feeling. Have a good look at all of this and make sure it's all operating as designed. It's possible someone put an aftermarket choke-brake on that's bleeding off too quick. It should take a good 2-3 seconds for that choke-brake (diaphragm) to bleed off if you simply remove the vacuum hose at an idle. If it flys open, that's likely the problem. The opening rate is controlled by the tiny hole where the vacuum hose connects.

Just the 8 plug version :-)

Agreed. Gotta love the roar of wide-open secondaries!

I must say, I've never heard of one dropping a seat! sorry for your bad luck

@@mark_osborne guess I’ll be the first person with a 5.3 in a GMT900 Escalade, honestly runs like a 6.2 since it was tuned

Wish i could give you some guidance

Any thoughts on the no idle situation?

Sounds like a blockage in the idle fuel feed circuit. It's not likely in the throttle plate as you can literally see the circuit, rather, almost certainly in the body of carb. I'd take it back apart and using a rubber blow-gun nozzle, blow air down through the holes that are next to the primary venturi (s)- both sides. This is the idle fuel well. Take a small wire and see if you can dig around as well. Also, make sure the top section of the carb is not warped. If it's warped, fuel won't flow properly through the idle circuit as it takes a trip up- then back down through the top plate right next to where the 2 small bolts secure the top plate at the venturi (both sides)

Thanks I will try that. I forced carb cleaner through all passages and it seems to flow thru but did not use high pressure. Carb did have water in it and sat a couple years, was a dunked up mess when i took it apart. Good news is everything past idle works great now, don't believe the secondaries worked at all before, always bogged down and had to pump the throttle to get it on plane. Greatly appreciate your insight, great viedo!

@@timmthirty7928 water is the worst, almost certain there is corrosion in the idle wells. You could try some CLR, squirt some down the the holes into the idle wells and let it sit, blow it out, repeat, you might clear the blockage

Good to know !

The customer decided against it. He has a device he plugs into the ALDL connector that prevents it from operating but you are 100% correct when you say he should have had me completely eliminate it.

Yup !

@@mark_osborne I wonder if gm was considering recalling these engines? I understand that a high hp/rpm engine requires more clearance, but at slightly over 100k this should not be an issue.

Haha - I get it !

The choke pull-off will keep that top air door slammed shut until the vacuum has a chance to bleed off. Free revving it in "park" doesn't always give it enough time to bleed off the vacuum. Try un-plugging the vacuum line to the primary (right front of the carb) choke pull-off and do the test again. Also, you can visually see the secondary shaft move (open) by looking at the passenger side of the carb. There is a green cross-pin going through the shaft. The lockout thinggy prevents the shaft from opening when it's cold by engaging that cross-pin. It should become very obvious what's going on once you study it a bit.

@@mark_osborne Thanks for replying, Mark! Little more background. I have a 1979 Carter Quadrajet and the Vacuum break is at the back of the carburetor. I actually removed it and plugged the vacuum line that is connected to the back of the carb. With the secondary lock mechanism removed, the vacuum break removed, air door tension adjusted to very light, I still don't see the air doors or secondary shaft move at a full throttle rev with the engine running. Funny thing, with the engine not running, I can see the secondary shaft rotate open when i pull back on the throttle. Confusing!

@@markpelley That is a first for me !

Love it ~!~

Go to EngineTech website and search your engine, the cam bearings will show up. You can buy them on RockAuto. Yes I used tighter bearings in only 4 spots as I recall. You have to do it by "feel", meaning, if the cam fits the original bearing with reasonable clearance, and the bearing looks good- leave it alone.

Thank you for the comment !

Hey Scoop, the Leaf batteries performed amazing. I took them out of service after roughly 7 years. I did a capacity test on them and they still had over 90% of their original rating of 2.2 KWHs. Shocking. Sold them to a friend for almost what I paid back in 2016. He added them to his system. Also, the cells stayed perfectly "in balance" all that time, never needing a BMS "balancer". Talk about quality. Since then I replaced both the Leaf and Volt batteries with LifePO4 technology, 54 KWHs worth. I'm running a BMS on all (4) 16 KWH packs. These new LifePO4's work good so far ( 6 months in). I noticed they do NOT stay in-balance (at the top and bottom) as well as the Leaf and Volt cells but the active BMS handles it just fine. Did I make the right decision ? I'm still not sure. From everything I can learn the LifePO4 cells are nearly impossible to catch fire, and that was my motivation to switch over to LifePO4. If I lived in Arizona (as opposed to effing Michigan), I would have kept the Leaf and Volt cells and had them in a shed 30 feet from any buildings and ran with it. But I can't do it here in cold Michigan as they won't tolerate the freezing temps.

There's a little "lock-out" flipper behind the choke that prevents the secondaries from opening until the choke is completely open. Occasionally that flipper doesn't move far enough (even with the choke fully open), and prevents the secondaries from opening. You can remove that lock-out flipper entirely and just be aware that getting into the secondaries on a cold engine may cause it to "bog" a bit. It requires partially removing the choke housing in order to remove the flipper.

@@mark_osborne oh yes i saw another video about that and my choke was not working correctly for 2 reasons. 1 the front vacuum break was bad replaced it and the choke heater needed adjusting. But those heaters i read were not adjustable some were some weren't mine wasnt because if a notch were it mounted on the housing. I made the decision to file it down to be able to ajust it. It worked. After all that i realize ld my secondaries still were working even with the lockout tab being cleared. Im gonna follow your directions on adjusting it. Can it be down with out taking the top of carb off ?? Thanks 👍

@@hunterriley9904 If you're real careful, you can remove the choke spring and take the screws out that hold the choke spring housing to the body of the carb, and very carefully pull it away just enough to allow that flipper to come off of the stud it's riding on. If you pull it too far out, the mechanism that drives the choke rod will disengage and you'll be forced to reattach it and that requires removing the top of the carb - but that isn't awful

​@@mark_osbornewell i attempted to adjust the secondary air door with no luck. I was able to loosen the set screw and attempt it but the air door isn't operating correctly. It has tension about 1)4 of the way open then flaps open the rest of the way its tight like theres a restriction i cant tell if its in the spring or the shaft. I was able to get it a little better with a sprist if wd40 and move it back and forth for a few minutes but still the same. I took a short video im gonna post it would like your opinion on what the problem may be. Thanks a bunch 👍

You are right there, that last 1/4 turn is everything @@hunterriley9904